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Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height, Direction and Breaker Angle of Southwest Coast of India Using Visually Observed Data

P. K. Abdulla, Jishnudas Sanma, E. J. James

Abstract


Design of coastal structures calls for information on wave climate of the area which can be obtained from wave data reported by ships, deployment of wave sensors and through visual observations. Coastal protection works require details on wave climate of the nearshore region. Deployment of equipments at all locations, where coastal protection works are required, may not be viable due to the involvement of expensive instrumentation. Under such circumstances, wave climate of the area can be derived through visual observations from the shore. On the Kerala coast, wave data have been collected through visual observations since 1973. Analysis of data using wave rose diagrams revealed that wave climate changes both spatially and temporally in this region. Wave attack is severe at Panathura, Kozhikode and Ambalapuzha were wider direction for wave approach is observed. Wave approach direction is very narrow at Kasaragod. During the north-east monsoon season, wave spread is generally narrow and the wave climate observed at Arrattupuzha is different from that at other places in the region and this requires detailed investigation.

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